Alquézar Alight

This past spring, I went to Spain to explore some lesser-known areas. Alquezar was near the top of my list as it is situated near the Pyrenees adjacent to the Sierra de Guara national park. The area has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site, but it is much less visited than the amazing cities of Barcelona, Toledo, Madrid & Valencia...this is both a shame and a blessing.

The castle or citadel was built in the 8th century and served as a defensive position for the surrounding area in a strategic and beautiful location. The village was built up around the castle in the 11th century and features multiple narrow streets that all wind you up in the direction of the castle. All of the buildings are built of the same stone and roof materials that make the village resemble one large, multi-faceted structure when viewed from above.

It is a rather small village...I think I walked all the city streets in about an hour. It was a joy to explore and find the various views over the cliffs into the canyon and beyond. Tired of the narrow streets, I decided to hike up a nearby hill to find a view of the village itself. Once I reached this spot, I knew I would come back here to capture a photo.

During sunset, the sky showed glimpses of color, but it never really materialized. The clouds, however, were dynamic and since I love the blue hour, I waited for it to come. As the darkness crept in, more and more lights lit up the medieval town. Very few tourists, if any, are here to witness this. Regardless, the village lights up the streets and the castle for the benefit of the locals and anyone (me) who happens to stick around.

I thought to myself, "what would the builders of this castle think if they saw it lit up at night?" Can you imagine what this town was like in 700AD without electric lights? Of course, there was the random torch or lantern, but nothing like this!

A great spectacle in a serene place...and a great stop for anyone visiting eastern Spain…add it to your list. :-)

Peaceful Paya

Visting Bagan, Myanmar in December 2017 was an incredible experience. The plains near the ancient city are filled with over 2,200 Buddhist monuments (pagodas, stupas, monasteries, etc) of varying shapes and sizes.

Between the 9th & 13th centuries, Bagan was the flourishing capital of the Pagan Kingdom and over 10,000 monuments were built here. Sadly, after repeated Mongol invasions and numerous earthquakes, only a fraction of the monuments survived. Still, with over 2,000 remaining, a view across the plains is a mesmerizing sight.

This was taken on our first night in Bagan. We arrived only an hour before sunset and did not have time to venture out into the plains. Fortunately, there was this beautiful small pagoda (Paya, in Burmese) very close to our hotel. From this spot, you could see numerous temples in the background and it turned out to be a great place to watch the sunset. As the sun disappeared behind the mountain in the distance, the sky softened and the lights around the pagoda illuminated. A perfect, peaceful first night in Bagan.

Red Rock Sunset

Sedona was just one of many places that amazed me during my trip to Arizona and Utah. The red rock formations here dominate the landscape in every direction. Some are more impressive than others, but all are beautiful.

Perhaps the most famous of these formations is Cathedral Rock (on the right side of the photo). It was my first stop after arriving in Sedona and I spent hours wandering around the trails and parks on its Western side. As sunset approached, I was in a position where Courthouse Butte was also visible, several miles in the distance and to the left of Cathedral Rock. Sedona is famous for its colorful sunsets, so I decided to wait here and hope for some great light. Needless to say, this sunset did not disappoint.  

I always enjoy the experience of seeing the sun disappear below the horizon. In Sedona, however, the main performance is in the opposite direction...watching the formations transform into vibrant towers. The red rocks come alive with color and even begin to glow as they reflect the warm sunlight.

Unfortunately, the show only lasts for 10-15 minutes and leaves you wanting for more. Fortunately, the rocks regularly reprise their role the following evening.

Prayer in Primary Colors

They say timing is everything. I am not sure who “they” are, but I tend to agree…especially in the case of this image.

After spending an hour photographing sunset at Wat Chedi Luang, my wife and I started making our way out of the complex, past this beautiful temple and toward the center of Chiang Mai. 

We noticed the sidewalk and streets were much busier than when we entered the complex hours ago. Worshipers had filled the temple and the city had come alive with street vendors, locals and tourists. Several Tuk-tuk drivers were yelling nearby, trying to solicit fares, while the already-employed Tuk-tuks whizzed by loudly on the street. Reaching the sidewalk, I turned around for one last look at the temple and immediately asked my wife to “wait a sec”...she knows that “wait a sec” really means “Jim spotted something he needs to photograph”…

I quickly moved to a position in-between the crowds and the temple. Seemingly oblivious to the mild chaos behind her, this solitary figure kneeled in prayer. It was her beautiful red clothing that first caught my attention, then her pose and concentration. In front of her the golden Buddha was illuminated by the nearby lights and, fortunately timed, the blue hour had begun. What a beautiful scene!

From observation to capture, this image took no more than twenty seconds. A scramble into position, a quick change of camera settings and a silent prayer of my own as I released the shutter. 

Fortunate timing indeed.

Ground Under Ben

I have to admit, the first time I visited London I was a little starstruck walking around most of the famous tourist attractions. I suppose I felt this way because I was actually standing next to all of these places that previously I had only been able to experience in movies or pictures. They were suddenly real!

Seeing Big Ben checked off one of my many bucket list items. I remember walking down the sidewalk, turning the corner, looking up to see this and just feeling happy. Finally, Ben right in front of me…awesome!

As I walked by this sign, I knew I wanted to get an image of it and Ben. However, when I stood by the sign, I discovered that I had to crouch down close to the ground to get an angle where Ben was visible. I had a problem…the sidewalk was flooded with tourists entering and exiting the Underground station nearby.  Getting on the ground would almost surely result in getting stepped on…or perhaps causing someone to trip over me as they walked by.

Fortunately my wife was with me and noticed my predicament. She offered to perform crowd control as I got low, doing an incredible job of shielding me from the passers by (and them from me!)

Problem solved. Memory captured. Photo assistant found!

To all of you in the U.S., Happy Thanksgiving! Hope you have a great holiday!

The Caretaker

This image is from our past trip to Bhutan…another portrait of one of the people that I found so inspiring. We found the people of Bhutan to be welcoming and warm everywhere that we went. It seems to just be their nature, part of their culture.

We met this gentle soul while hiking up to the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal, an important and beautiful temple that overlooks the Punakha Valley. Looking ahead as we walked through the rice fields, we could see him spinning a prayer wheel that marks the start of the ascent up to the temple. When we arrived he greeted us with a smile and welcomed us to this sacred place…his sacred place. We discovered, with the help of our guide, that he is the head monk and the caretaker of the temple. 

After offering us a blessing, he encouraged us to continue our hike up to the main temple. He seemed genuinely happy that we were there to visit and we, in turn, felt fortunate that our timing allowed us this chance encounter.

I don’t often take portraits of people, but this was an experience I wanted to capture. Before leaving, I mustered up the courage to ask the monk if I could take his photograph and he happily agreed. With the light now above the mountains to the east and illuminating one side of him, I took this one image.

When I look at the image, I since the serenity and kindness that he possesses. Perhaps this is simply because of our personal encounter, but I hope that you can also see this in his eyes and expression. I also hope that if you visit Bhutan, you get a chance to meet him as well. 

Circumambulation

I mentioned in a previous post how much I was inspired by the people of Bhutan…this is another example. 

While visiting the National Memorial Chorten in Thimphu, Bhutan, we watched hundreds of Bhutanese pray at this sacred temple. This is one of the most popular Stupas in Bhutan, so it is quite common to witness large crowds here throughout the day. People pray while walking in a clockwise direction around the temple…it is called Circumambulation. Most of the people we saw walked in groups, praying together…although some walked/prayed alone. There are also a lot of on-lookers just beyond the temple walkway that enjoy watching those praying.

As I sat nearby and watched people make their way again and again around the Stupa, I found myself waiting for this young lady to re-appear from behind the building as she made another pass. Her beautiful clothing immediately caught my attention, but on each subsequent pass I was able to look a little deeper. She walked alone and never wavered in her intensity, spinning her prayer wheel (also clockwise) while chanting prayers as she circled the temple. 

On one pass, I grabbed my camera and took a few images of her. I was hoping to capture her concentration, the spinning of the prayer wheel and the vibrance of her clothes contrasting with the almost pure white walls of the temple. This ended up being one of my favorite images from the trip along with a great memory.

The Fairy Pools

Earlier this month I had the opportunity to visit the Isle of Skye on the Northwest coast of Scotland. The scenery here is spectacular! Mountains, lakes, waterfalls, seaside cliffs and beautiful valleys are found all over the island. You just have to get a bit lucky with the unpredictable and often changing weather, so that you can enjoy all that there is to experience.

This image is from the Fairy Pools, an amazing series of cascading, crystal clear, blue colored pools that are fed by a stream coming off of the Black Cullin mountains. I was surprised how many separate pools there were...I figured there would be 4 or 5, but there are easily dozens that step their way down the gentle slope. Most of the pools also feature a waterfall and the water is so clear that you can see every pebble and stone under the surface. If you are brave enough, you can swim in the larger pools. I did see a few people strip down to their bathing suits and jump in for a short time, but they climbed out quickly. The water looks appealing, but it is very cold coming down from the mountains.

This shallow pool is one of the furthest upstream. There were hundreds of people hiking that afternoon, but most of them stopped and spent their time at one of the lower pools. As I walked, each pool seemed more appealing than the last…so I kept going until I arrived here...a picturesque spot with the mountains towering directly behind the waterfalls. I had it all to myself for about 30 minutes before some others joined me. 

It was such a peaceful place on a beautiful afternoon. I didn't want to leave, but after three straight days of wind and rain, I decided to take advantage of the great weather and check off a few more places that I wanted to explore. It turns out that leaving was a good choice as I photographed a beautiful sunset that evening at Niest Point. I am looking forward to sharing that image in the coming weeks. 

Angkor Gondolier

When I think of gondolas, I always picture Venice. I never even considered that we would see gondolas in Cambodia, but there are actually quite a few that take people out onto the moat surrounding Angkor Thom.

After a hot day full of wandering through various ruins and temples, it was a welcome break to relax in the boat as our gondolier steered us out on the water. We hired the gondola shortly before sunset and, as a result, we were able to watch the sun go down while floating around this ancient temple complex...a really peaceful experience.

This image is of another gondola that was ahead of us. I loved watching the gondolier skillfully make his way through the narrow passageways in between the reeds. It was a beautiful, unexpected scene and was the perfect ending to our first day in Cambodia.

Wat Chedi Luang

Wat Chedi Luang is a Buddhist temple in the historic center of Chiang Mai, Thailand. It was built in the late 14th century and was originally around 90 meters (295 feet) high before it was partly destroyed in an earthquake in 1545. Even in its damaged state, it remained the tallest structure in Chiang Mai for over 500 years. 

The chedi was restored by Unesco and the Japanese government in the 1990s, however, the restorers stopped short of finishing the spire, as apparently nobody could agree what the original design looked like. The result is this somewhat awkward shaped spire that I find very interesting.

From this angle, you can just make out the black jade Buddha sitting in the upper niche. It is a copy of the Emerald Buddha in Bangkok and was placed here in 1995 to celebrate the 600th anniversary of the chedi.

I visited this temple in the late afternoon and waited until several spotlights illuminated the chedi in the early evening. During this time, with the golden lights and the darkening sky, I think the temple looks even more majestic. Fortunately the sky also cooperated with some great color as the sun disappeared.

Speicherstadt

The Speicherstadt (translated as City of Warehouses) is not your ordinary warehouse district. It is actually the largest contiguous warehouse complex in the world and an amazing site to explore. Built in 1883 near the main port of Hamburg, the area consists of 17 Gothic style warehouses featuring numerous gables and turrets that are all connected by canals, as well as by land. Truly an interesting place! In July 2015, the area was awarded the status of UNESCO World Heritage Site

While it is wonderful to explore during the day, it takes on almost a fairytale atmosphere at night. The red brick façades, multiple bridges and circular turrets are illuminated by spotlights and create shimmering reflections in the canals. 

It had just started raining when I arrived at this bridge over the Wandrahmsfleet canal. As you can imagine, it is a popular spot for photographers, but I was the only one there on this night. The scene and the colors were just fantastic. The golden lights were lit on most of the turrets and reflections were everywhere in the water. The light even reflected off of the low clouds overhead, casting a purple hue and making it a little more of a dreamy scene…well worth getting a little wet while taking this image. 

Karlův most (Charles Bridge)

Anyone who has been fortunate enough to visit Prague will instantly recognize this landmark…the Karlův most (more commonly known among English speakers as the Charles Bridge).

It is an impressive structure spanning the Vltava River and was completed in the early 15th century. Towers sit on both sides of the bridge and Baroque statues of religious figures have been placed along the entire length. Currently, it is a pedestrian only zone and is often filled with local artists, musicians and souvenir vendors catering to the tourists. 

Only a fraction of the people that visit the bridge during the day are there at night, so it is a much more peaceful place to wander about. Every night I made my way along the river and admired the beautifully lit structures on the opposite side…and each night I stopped and photographed the Charles Bridge from various vantage points. 

I never got tired of spending time here. On my last night in Prague, I took some take-out with me and sat here for hours on the river’s edge…just taking it all in as the sun disappeared and the lights lit up the city.

Black, White & Blue - Jökulsárlón

Several weeks ago I shared this image taken at Jökulsárlón, the glacial lagoon in Iceland. This image was taken nearby at the black sand beach just downstream from the lagoon. Chunks of ice regularly wash ashore here after floating out to sea.

On this particular morning, the fog was so thick that it created a very dreamlike scene. There was literally no color in the sky…it was just white in every direction. In fact, the only color to be found was in this chunk blue ice. You can’t tell from the photo, but this piece of ice is about the size of a SUV. There were several smaller pieces scattered on the beach, but this one immediately captured my attention and was begging to be photographed.

White skies, black sand and blue ice…it was co cool (pun intended) to be here with this unique backdrop.

The Tiger's Nest - Paro, Bhutan

Almost exactly one year ago today, I hiked up to one of the most amazing places in the world…the Tiger’s Nest. It is a monastery built into the sheer cliff face 3,000 feet above the Paro Valley in Bhutan. It’s real name is Paro Taktsang and it is sacred Bhuddist temple built in 1692. According to legend, Guru Padmasambhava flew to this location from Tibet on the back of a tigress and is said to have meditated here in a cave for three years, three months, three weeks, three days and three hours in the 8th century.

When you are on the valley floor, the temple seems unreachable…you see it only as a small spot on the cliff wall. Fortunately the climb is less intimidating than it appears. Ugay (my guide) and I started the hike early in the morning and were able to reach the top in just over 2 hours.

As one of the first people to reach the top this particular day, we experienced the temple in almost sheer solitude. Taking in the site from a nearby vantage point, I pondered how much labor it took to build it, the engineering behind it, and the peace and serenity I felt gazing upon it. I remember the stillness and the silence…it made a lasting impression on me. 

The light for photographs was not the best, so we continued forward to enter the temple. Once inside, we made our way to the most sacred place…the cave entrance where Guru Padmasambhava landed and meditated. The resident monk sprinkled us with water and gave us a blessing. Later we wandered around the various rooms of the temple, investigated the many Buddhas located here, meditated and, lastly, spent time at an overlook taking in the view of the valley below.
 
Upon leaving the temple,I took several photographs from various vantage points. Somewhat reluctantly, I ventured off of the walking paths to take several images…beyond the wooden rails that provide some safety from falling off of the cliffs (unfortunately, people die here each year while making the trek to the top.) Ugay, perfectly surefooted, made sure I did not fall while I set up my tripod and took the image that you see here. 

Bhutan, in general, is a magical country and visiting the Tiger’s Nest was the highlight of my time there. I did not want to leave, so Ugay and I sat here for some time taking in the view and listening to the colorful prayer flags fluttering in the wind. An amazing experience. If you ever have the opportunity to visit Bhutan, I encourage you to go…and take me with you!

Misty Morning in Val d'Orcia

One of my favorite places in Italy is the Val d'Orcia. It is a beautiful valley in Tuscany that features rolling hills, fields, vineyards, olive groves, those great cypress trees and Medieval castles.  In certain spots you have magnificent “big” 360 degree views of the countryside that never fail to impress. It is no wonder that UNESCO included this area on the World Heritage List in 2004. 

The first time I visited here in 2010, I was awestruck at the natural beauty of the place. It has inspired numerous artists from the Renaissance to the present day and there are photo opportunities everywhere. What makes it even more fun to photograph, is that the colors change every season and the weather and light have a dramatic effect on the look of the surroundings. 

On the morning that I took this image, a light fog filled the low parts of the valley (which happens often here), creating this dreamy scene with the picturesque hilltop farmhouses. 

Kirkjufell (Church Mountain)

This is Kirkjufell, one of the most famous mountains in Iceland. It is situated on the coast of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, near Grundarfjörður, a small village in western Iceland of about 900 residents. It may also be the most photogenic mountain in Iceland as it can be photographed from many different angles. This is not the most popular view of Kirkjufell, but I love it though as the symmetry of the landscape is almost perfect. Not only is the mountain shaped like a pyramid, but the distant hills on the left and right mirror each other just as the road mimics the left shoreline. It was just starting to rain and the dramatic sky was the perfect complement with the clouds swirling around the tip of the mountain. I stayed for three days in this area photographing Kirkjufell from every angle in constantly changing weather. It is a magical place and I will share more photos in later posts as it never fails to disappoint. It is one of my favorite places in Iceland and I can’t wait to return to see it (and photograph it) again.

San Giorgio Maggiore at Dawn

Venice is easily one of my favorite cities in Europe. Its narrow winding walkways, numerous bridges and maze of canals make it a truly unique place to visit. I prefer to wander around Venice at night or early in the morning before the crowds of tourists fill the alleyways & piazzas. At these times you have the city to yourself...it is quiet, peaceful, a joy to explore or even get lost (which happens to me frequently due to the twisting passages & canals!) For this image, I awoke around 4:30 am and wandered through St. Marks square in the twilight and completely alone…which was a great experience in itself. As the sun began to rise, I walked down the popular Riva Degli Schiavoni promenade next to St. Mark’s square. This view, looking out over the Grand Canal to the iconic Church of San Giorgio Maggiore, has been photographed countless times…and is one of my favorite spots in the city.

Hvítserkur, Iceland - Thirsty Rhino

Just off the shore of the Vatnsnes Peninsula on the Northern coast of Iceland sits Hvítserkur. It is a 15 meter high sea stack that was once the plug of a volcano. Over the years, the surrounding rock has given way to the sea leaving only this unusual outcropping behind. 

According to Icelandic legend, Hvítserkur is the petrified remains of a troll who lived on the other side of the water in Strandir. One evening, the troll crossed the water to tear down the bells at the nearby monastery. Unfortunately (or fortunately for the monastery), on the way across the sun rose and, as everybody knows, trolls turn into stone in daylight!  

From this angle, some say that it resembles a rhinoceros, a dragon or a dinosaur drinking from the water. I can sort of see the rhinoceros…so I named this one “Thirsty Rhino”.

Manarola - A Jewel of Cinque Terre

Earlier this year, I was able to spend 3 days in Cinque Terre “The Five Lands” and explore this beautiful (& somewhat remote) part of Italy. Manarola is the second smallest of these coastal towns on the Ligurian Sea and is perched on a rocky shoreline, with a small harbor and picturesque buildings cascading down the hills. There are no cars allowed here, or in most of the Cinque Terre towns, so catching a train or boat from La Spezia or Pisa is how most tourist arrive. Hiking is popular here with trails connecting all of the towns and providing great views along the coast and through the hillside vineyards. Some of the other towns feature large beaches and attract the sunbathing crowd. Even though Manarola does not have a beach, many still come to swim in the harbor, while the more adventurous dive off of various cliffs entertaining themselves & the tourists in the nearby cafes.

Like most small towns in Italy, I particularly enjoy Manarola after the tourists have left for the day. Once the mid-day crowds have boarded their boats & trains back to the larger cities, you get to calmly experience the town in a more personal fashion...tasting the food and wine of the local artisans, wandering the narrow streets or enjoying gelato while gazing across the harbor and listening to the waves. Manarola is undoubtedly beautiful any time of day, but the serenity added in the evening make it truly a special place.

Westfriedhof

Munich has several modern, architecturally interesting U-Bahn stations.  This is Westfriedhof station and is one of my favorites.  The platform is bathed in light from huge modern dome lights in primary colors.  Above the dome lights, neon blue light bounces off the ceiling and reflects off the rough concrete walls creating a great effect as you wonder about the station.