Balloons Over Buddhas

Every morning in Bagan, hot air balloons lift off near the Irrawaddy river and slowly drift over the numerous temples and pagodas. They grant tourists a unique way to view the scenic valley, but perhaps even better, they provide a great photo opportunity for those who stay on the ground.

In the wake of recent earthquakes and to preserve the structures, Bagan has banned climbing on almost all of its temples. Tourists used to flock to the large Sulamuni Temple for iconic views of the sunrise. As this is no longer possible, finding viewpoints above the tree canopy are limited. Fortunately, there are still two smaller temples that remain open for sunrise and sunset viewing. Space is limited, so you have to arrive early, but witnessing the morning ritual is worth the early wake-up call.

My guide and I arrived here in the darkness. Using a flashlight, we climbed the narrow, internal staircase until we reached the upper balcony. There were already 6-8 people there when we arrived, but a space looking towards the golden Ananda temple was still available. I quickly set up my gear and then waited patiently for the show to start.

As the sun appeared, the haze took on a pleasing glow and the first glimpse of a balloon could be seen in the distance. Soon there were dozens of balloons dotting the sky and approaching our location. The procession lasted about an hour during which I alternated between taking photos and quietly observing the exhibition. After the color and balloons faded, I spent another 20 minutes enjoying the panoramic view on the other side of the temple. A memorable morning in an extraordinary place.

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Silhouetted Skyline

Most tourists in Bagan spend their days visiting the largest temples…walking around the impressive structures and exploring the insides of those open to the public. As amazing as it is to experience these temples up close, it pales in comparison to finding a spot where you can look out over the entire valley and appreciate the sheer number of them. If you happen to get a colorful sky at sunset or sunrise, the experience can be magical. 

It was hazy and cloudless on our first day in Bagan. Given the conditions, I did not expect a colorful sunset. I was completely wrong…

We were facing the sun, and the light was harsh. Surprisingly, we started to see a glow developing in the haze in the distance...not high in the sky, but below the sun and just above the ground. I planned on a wide angle photo of the valley, but I quickly grabbed my longest telephoto lens to zoom in on the silhouetted skyline. The light was intense, but dropping the exposure setting to -2 protected the highlights and still left some of the detail in the foreground. The glow lasted for about 10 minutes until the sun fell behind the mountain in the distance. 

This is the first photo I took in Bagan and I ended up taking several hundred more as the light softened. I encourage you to also check out a previous post, Peaceful Paya, to see how the warm golden glow was replaced with cooler pink hues high in the sky on the same evening.

Even without clouds, I found this sunset to be spectacular. Perhaps we were just lucky, but since watching the sunset is heavily promoted as a must-do when visiting, I suspect sunsets frequently surprise in Bagan.

Peaceful Paya

Visting Bagan, Myanmar in December 2017 was an incredible experience. The plains near the ancient city are filled with over 2,200 Buddhist monuments (pagodas, stupas, monasteries, etc) of varying shapes and sizes.

Between the 9th & 13th centuries, Bagan was the flourishing capital of the Pagan Kingdom and over 10,000 monuments were built here. Sadly, after repeated Mongol invasions and numerous earthquakes, only a fraction of the monuments survived. Still, with over 2,000 remaining, a view across the plains is a mesmerizing sight.

This was taken on our first night in Bagan. We arrived only an hour before sunset and did not have time to venture out into the plains. Fortunately, there was this beautiful small pagoda (Paya, in Burmese) very close to our hotel. From this spot, you could see numerous temples in the background and it turned out to be a great place to watch the sunset. As the sun disappeared behind the mountain in the distance, the sky softened and the lights around the pagoda illuminated. A perfect, peaceful first night in Bagan.

Prayer in Primary Colors

They say timing is everything. I am not sure who “they” are, but I tend to agree…especially in the case of this image.

After spending an hour photographing sunset at Wat Chedi Luang, my wife and I started making our way out of the complex, past this beautiful temple and toward the center of Chiang Mai. 

We noticed the sidewalk and streets were much busier than when we entered the complex hours ago. Worshipers had filled the temple and the city had come alive with street vendors, locals and tourists. Several Tuk-tuk drivers were yelling nearby, trying to solicit fares, while the already-employed Tuk-tuks whizzed by loudly on the street. Reaching the sidewalk, I turned around for one last look at the temple and immediately asked my wife to “wait a sec”...she knows that “wait a sec” really means “Jim spotted something he needs to photograph”…

I quickly moved to a position in-between the crowds and the temple. Seemingly oblivious to the mild chaos behind her, this solitary figure kneeled in prayer. It was her beautiful red clothing that first caught my attention, then her pose and concentration. In front of her the golden Buddha was illuminated by the nearby lights and, fortunately timed, the blue hour had begun. What a beautiful scene!

From observation to capture, this image took no more than twenty seconds. A scramble into position, a quick change of camera settings and a silent prayer of my own as I released the shutter. 

Fortunate timing indeed.

Wat Chedi Luang

Wat Chedi Luang is a Buddhist temple in the historic center of Chiang Mai, Thailand. It was built in the late 14th century and was originally around 90 meters (295 feet) high before it was partly destroyed in an earthquake in 1545. Even in its damaged state, it remained the tallest structure in Chiang Mai for over 500 years. 

The chedi was restored by Unesco and the Japanese government in the 1990s, however, the restorers stopped short of finishing the spire, as apparently nobody could agree what the original design looked like. The result is this somewhat awkward shaped spire that I find very interesting.

From this angle, you can just make out the black jade Buddha sitting in the upper niche. It is a copy of the Emerald Buddha in Bangkok and was placed here in 1995 to celebrate the 600th anniversary of the chedi.

I visited this temple in the late afternoon and waited until several spotlights illuminated the chedi in the early evening. During this time, with the golden lights and the darkening sky, I think the temple looks even more majestic. Fortunately the sky also cooperated with some great color as the sun disappeared.

The Tiger's Nest - Paro, Bhutan

Almost exactly one year ago today, I hiked up to one of the most amazing places in the world…the Tiger’s Nest. It is a monastery built into the sheer cliff face 3,000 feet above the Paro Valley in Bhutan. It’s real name is Paro Taktsang and it is sacred Bhuddist temple built in 1692. According to legend, Guru Padmasambhava flew to this location from Tibet on the back of a tigress and is said to have meditated here in a cave for three years, three months, three weeks, three days and three hours in the 8th century.

When you are on the valley floor, the temple seems unreachable…you see it only as a small spot on the cliff wall. Fortunately the climb is less intimidating than it appears. Ugay (my guide) and I started the hike early in the morning and were able to reach the top in just over 2 hours.

As one of the first people to reach the top this particular day, we experienced the temple in almost sheer solitude. Taking in the site from a nearby vantage point, I pondered how much labor it took to build it, the engineering behind it, and the peace and serenity I felt gazing upon it. I remember the stillness and the silence…it made a lasting impression on me. 

The light for photographs was not the best, so we continued forward to enter the temple. Once inside, we made our way to the most sacred place…the cave entrance where Guru Padmasambhava landed and meditated. The resident monk sprinkled us with water and gave us a blessing. Later we wandered around the various rooms of the temple, investigated the many Buddhas located here, meditated and, lastly, spent time at an overlook taking in the view of the valley below.
 
Upon leaving the temple,I took several photographs from various vantage points. Somewhat reluctantly, I ventured off of the walking paths to take several images…beyond the wooden rails that provide some safety from falling off of the cliffs (unfortunately, people die here each year while making the trek to the top.) Ugay, perfectly surefooted, made sure I did not fall while I set up my tripod and took the image that you see here. 

Bhutan, in general, is a magical country and visiting the Tiger’s Nest was the highlight of my time there. I did not want to leave, so Ugay and I sat here for some time taking in the view and listening to the colorful prayer flags fluttering in the wind. An amazing experience. If you ever have the opportunity to visit Bhutan, I encourage you to go…and take me with you!